Authors:
Luke, Katie and Cora are two backpackers with a toddler in tow: @ungracefulguide, theungracefulguide.com and YouTube
How to do The Day of the Dead:
The two most highly recommended places in Mexico to celebrate are Oaxaca and Michoacán. We celebrated the Dia De Muertos (Day of the Dead) in Oaxaca in 2022. What a beautiful, eye-opening celebration, one that certainly sparks a new perspective on life and death. P.S. we Coco’d the sh*t outta it.
Accommodation:
Wherever you decide to celebrate DOTD in Mexico, book your accommodation as soon as. Even a year in advance as a “just in case” (check cancellation policies before booking).
Other than Oaxaca Centro, consider staying in Jalatlaco or Xoxocotlan. Two fantastic neighbourhoods full of celebrations with easy transport/walking distance to the centre.
Transport:
Public transport usually stops around 10pm but you can still find collectivo (shared) taxis for much cheaper than private cabs. Look out for the white cars with a wine stripe and destination signs on the windscreen! Expect to pay around 40 peso per person. Plan your transport ahead or you may be charged crazy prices/not be able to get back.
Day of the Dead celebrations kick off on 31 Oct and last until 2nd Nov – each day with its own unique dedication to those who have passed. Here’s what we suggest, but do go with the flow!
Our tips:
Visiting Xoxocotlan cemetery was a surreal experience. We highly suggest bringing some offerings with you. It was so nice to add to the ofrendas. Defo join in, chat to families, pay respects to their deceased, have fun. It’s a celebration and the warm welcome will put you at ease (it’s ok to take photos/video but ask for permission first!). Stop at Panteon Viejo as well. Less families as it’s a very old cemetery but it’s quiet, calm and equally as moving.
Face painting is around 100-250 peso and painters can be found in the zocalo and all along the andador tursitico. On Nov 1st and 2nd arrive early as there will be queues! We had ours painted late after Cora ate and napped. It made life easier!
Walk the streets, listen for the music and follow the drum!. There is always a comparsa (parade) to be found. Get involved and get dancing! We found it to be very safe for Cora in Oaxaca Centro. People are so kind and very aware.
There’s a funfair at the Panteon General where you’ll find a veeery chilled atmosphere, perfect if kids are feeling overwhelmed and in need of some grub and fun.
For a crazy, intense party atmosphere Google San Agustín Etla. We skipped it but won’t next time!
Our 31 October itinerary in detail:
Spend the day in Oaxaca centre exploring the ofrendas (altars) around the zocalo.
Indulge in some Pan de Muerto (sweet bread dipped in a giant bowl of hot chocolate) at the Mercado de Noviembre and make sure you pick up some offerings of sweets and bread for your cemetery visit later.
Visit Jalatlaco to see the decorations and ofrendas.
Visit the General Pantheon (San Miguel) to see locals preparing graves.
Nightime:
Head to Xoxocotlan (pronounced ho-ho-cot-lawn or ho-ho for short) for the celebrations in the cemetery. The whole area is filled with food stalls, face painting, bars and music – it’s wonderfully chaotic!
Head to the Panteon Mictlancihuatl and get caught up in the atmosphere Once inside, wander. Chat to families and ask about their relatives, enjoy a mescal (they will offer), join the mariachi bands and add your offerings to the ofrendas.
If you have the energy head to San Agustín Etla for a crazy party with 3000-5000 in fancy dress.
To watch Luke, Katie and Cora’s Day of the Dead trip on their super informative YouTube account click here. We suggest you subscribe for top, tip filled, funny content.
The Ungraceful Guide:
Katie and Luke describe themselves as “two (and a bit) tight-arsed, potty-mouthed backpackers ungracefully laughing our way around the world”. They have toddler Cora in tow and are experts on slow and budget travel.
They have phenomenal travel experience check out their website, follow them on on instagram and YouTube You won’t regret it.
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