Mexico is vast and varied. Unless you’ve time, or are taking internal flights, it’s best to explore one or two states in detail. We’re lucky to have been several times, so our top 5 are from all across this amazing country:
Palenque:
The Mayan ruins of Palenque in Chiapas are our favourite place in Mexico. The astonishing, compact site is surrounded by dense jungle – and atmospheric mist if you visit early morning. The centrepieces of the towered palace and the steep pyramid are breathtaking, as is the view from the top of the pyramid. Don’t miss the many inscriptions and bas reliefs on the buildings. There are 100’s of ruins still to be excavated in the thick forest surrounding the site.
Tip – it’s worth exploring the paths in the National Park, like the waterfall path, to see the many un-excavated outcrops and the howler monkeys up close.
Oaxaca:
The city of Oaxaca is mesmerising and packed with colour, cuisine and churches. The capital of Oaxaca State centres around the grand social hub of El Zocalo with its colonnades, cafes and festive bustle. Against a backdrop of marimba, locals and tourists parade and buy from the many vendors. Next to the Zocalo, is Oaxaca’s Baroque Cathedral dating back to 1535, but we prefer the ornate Santo Domingo Church, the largest in the city.
We had our best Mexican food in Oaxaca and the place to start is the Mercado Benito Juárez. This maze of a market is brimming with mole powders, bags of fresh cheese, local coffee beans, flowers, fruit and woven baskets. You can also try fresh grasshopper tacos. The whole city is UNESCO listed along with the unmissable ruins of Monte Alban 20 minutes away. This stunning pre-Columbian site is set on a flat mountain top with remarkable monuments and views of the valley.
Tip – Oaxaca is a very walkable city by Mexican standards. Wander round the grid pattern of streets and take in the vividly painted buildings.
Chichen Itza:
Chichen Itza is phenomenal. In fact we think it’s worth visiting the Yucatan just for Chichen Itza. Despite the tourist hoards, the first sight of El Castillo, the 30 metre high step pyramid, is unforgettable. It’s worth exploring all the buildings, but of you’re short on time, don’t miss the Platform of the Skulls, the Thousand Columns, the Sacred Cenote and the stunning Temple of the Warriors (for the best views). It’s worth visiting the Yucatan just for Chichen Itza.
Tip – if you can, overnight and get in the ticket queue well before it opens to avoid the crowds.
San Cristobal de las Casas:
Located in the highlands of Chiapas, the colonial town of San Cristobal de las Casas is enchanting. Its vividly coloured streets match Oaxaca’s and the Zocalo and Cathedral are both beautiful.
However, the reason it’s on our list is the movingly, magical church in proudly independent Chamula 10 kilometres away.
The white Iglesia de San Juan, looks Catholic, but on closer inspection the green painted arch is decorated with Mayan symbols. Describing inside as other worldly is an understatement. There are no pews, just an open space with a floor covered in pine needles and smoke spirals from lit resin. Families and healers sit around the sick, lying on the floor, performing spiritual rites. The Mayan rituals involve chickens, eggs and bottles of fizzy drinks. It is intensely moving.
No cameras are allowed, but tour guides can go in. In fact, some visitors we met said they were glad they were with a guide as they felt less intrusive. We didn’t use one and this allowed us to stay longer.
Tip – don’t miss a visit to nearby Zinacantan (it’s often combined with Chamula). It’s another traditional Mayan village where the locals wear bright pink, in contrast to the bright blue ponchos of Chamula.
Mexico City:
Mexico City is traffic jammed, polluted and at the sort of altitude that can give you sickness. But you have to include it in any trip to Mexico.
In CDMX, don’t miss: Templo Mayor, the Floating Gardens of Xochimilco, the Museo Nacional de Antropología, the ornately tiled Casa de Los Azulejos department store and the massive Metropolitan Cathedral which dominates the equally massive main square. However, the reason Mexico City made it on our list is Teotihuacan an hour away.
Teotihuacan is vast and impressive. It’s dominated by: the astonishing Pyramid of the Moon – which has the best view from the top; and the iconic Pyramid of the Sun – dating back to 100 AD and a massive 70 metres high. The ancient pre-Columbian site, is accessed by the dramatic Causeway of the Dead lined with mini pyramid temples and plazas. Don’t miss: the roofed and frescoed Palace of the Quetzal Butterfly; the Palace of the Jaguars for stunning carvings and the on site Museum.
Tip – don’t underestimate the size of the site. Go early to avoid the heat (and tourists). There is no shade and you will probably walk at least 4 kilometres at altitude.