Marseille has it all: art, architecture and attitude; plus a prime position on the Med. This sun-drenched southern port has just become our favourite city in France. Paris may have the fame, but it’s also rammed with tourists. Marseille has less visitors, fewer tourist traps and a genuine buzz. Here’s our top 5 must dos:
The Old Port
The port is the best place to soak up the local atmosphere of Marseille. Start with people watching under the exquisite shadow of Foster’s L‘Ombriere. A polished steel mirror on stilts adding shade and style to the edge of the port. Fishing boats and yachts line the harbour as do cafes and stalls selling local produce. Tips – it really is worth buying some local soap, you will be spoilt for choice. Plus, don’t miss Maison Empereur one block back from the harbour front, it’s the ultimate hardware store. The several rooms and floors are jammed with a spectacular choice of local produce and practical items. We challenge you to leave empty handed. We bought soap, cologne, coffee and a bowl!
MUCEM
Next wander down to the vast MUCEM complex at the tip of the port. MUCEM – the museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations – is the ultimate mix of old and new. Even if museums aren’t your thing, don’t miss this one. The complex combines a modern mesh coated cube of a building (which combines spectacular linked walkways and exhibition spaces) and the vast 17th century Fort Jean guarding the entrance of the port since Louis XIV’s reign. Both have remarkable views of the port and each other and are linked by a high aerial walkway over the sea. Both are architectural stunners and the sculptural gardens and surroundings are perfect places to rest and relax.
Le Panier
Next to MUCEM and the port is Le Panier. Set on a hill with narrow streets and steps, it’s the oldest district of Marseille. It’s picturesque, full of genuine character and, at quiet times of the day, it can feel like a Provencal village.
Tips – just wander and explore the squares, alleyways and less touristy shops and cafes; don’t forget to look up, as the architecture is often ornate; finally, buy ice cream at Vanille Noire.Intense flavours, especially the signature black vanilla with its secret ingredient.
La Cité Radieuse – The Radiant City
Even if you don’t like architecture, this UNESCO heritage site designed by Le Corbusier in 1952 is worth visiting. About 5 km from the centre of Marseille (easily accessible by bus) is a groundbreaking building which inspired urban design across the world. La Cité Radieuse is a perfectly preserved apartment block suspended on stilts and designed to maximise green space. It remains a community containing a nursery school, shops and offices, plus a spectacular rooftop space for its inhabitants. Tip don’t miss the sculptured walls or the use of colour blocking on the blinds and the stained glass entrance hall.
You can book tours here or, even better, splash out and stay in the on site Hotel Le Corbusier overnighting in an original unit (with access to the rooftop pool and a simple breakfast in the restaurant).
Les Calanques
A short boat trip from the port are the Calanques – a series of dramatic limestone mini fjords which punctuate the coastline for 20km to nearby Cassis.
There are 26 coves of various sizes, but most feature steep cliffs and small pebbly beaches – some of which you can hike to. All have crystal clear, azure water and abundant underwater wildlife. Not surprisingly, they are a protected National Park.
The best way to visit is by boat or kayak. There are multiple tours of varied duration depending on how many you want to see. We suggest visiting at least 5 and definitely picking a trip which includes a swim.
Tip if you go off season, when the tour operators remove the swimming option, access the Calanques from nearby Cassis (a short bus trip from Marseille). From here, you can hike to the nearest Calanque in 20 minutes or you can simply swim from the sandy town beach. Then take a boat trip from the port in Cassis – there are many on offer at the nearby pontoon.
Cassis itself is worth a short stop – a pretty port lined with restaurants, cafes (and the inevitable soap shops). Snack Les Calanques, near the tour pontoons, sells standard snacks for your trip, but the ice cream is delicious and reasonably priced – check out the sorbets.