With the spectacularly remote islands of Greece you need to arrive by ferry from a main port. This makes most visits a two (or more) centre trip. For us, this adds to the experience. You can mix and match, compare and contrast and pair busy with quiet, and culture with isolation.
One of our favourite couplings is in the Dodecanese – Kos and Leros.
The island of Kos is well served by flights (and package tours). It’s very busy in Summer and is also one of the worst islands to get around due to a chronic shortage of taxis. But travel off season, and Kos Old Town is home to many delights.
Kos Old Town
Kos has been inhabited by Ancient Greeks, Romans, Crusaders, ottomans, Germans and Italians. Venetians and all left their mark in Kos Town.
Roman Agora
Behind the noisy tourist streets is the peaceful Roman Agora. This large ancient marketplace was exposed by an earthquake in 1933. It’s open all day to explore intricately carved stones and columns. Highlights include the Shrine of Aphrodite, the Temple of Hercules dating from the 2nd century BC and a 5th century Christian basilica.
Plateia Platanou
A short walk up from the Agora is the beautiful, cafe lined cobblestone square Plateia Platanou. Famed for the central Hippocrates Plane Tree – which is a bit of an anti-climax – it also contains the 18th century Gazi Hassan Pasha Mosque and an ancient sarcophagus turned into a fountain by the Ottomans.
Castle of the Knights
Accessed by the arched stone bridge from Plateia Platanou, is the 14th century crusader castle built by the Knights Hospitaller. Originally called Nerantzia after its bitter orange trees, it’s a stunning fortification both inside and out. Make sure you look up to see the stone carvings and inscriptions.
Leros
A ninety minute ferry away is Leros. It’s the opposite to Kos, green, peaceful, and unspoilt. Leros home to numerous quiet, lake like bays and has just 3 main settlements. Depending on which ferry you take you will arrive in either Lakki or Agia Marina. Both are well worth exploring.
Lakki
The port of Lakki doesn’t feel Greek, it feels like a film set. A blend of Art Deco and Bauhaus it transports you to the 1930’s. Built as a model town by Mussolini it’s now a UNESCO heritage site. Don’t miss the market clock tower and the cinema.
Agia Marina
On the other side of the island Agia Marina is a picture perfect Dodecanese harbour town. There’s whitewashed side alleys, traditional churches, cool boutiques and harbour side bars and tavernas. If you’re energetic you can climb up to the Byzantine castle of Panagia.
For a sunbathe and swim either head along the bay to low key Alinda or over the hill to the quiet fishing port of Pantelli.
We stayed at the stylishly, laid back Alidian Bay Suites directly across the bay from Agia Marina.