Forget the Greek islands, yes they’re seriously beautiful, but we would argue that the mainland of Greece is even more stunning. For history, culture and unspoilt beaches you can’t go wrong. Our favourite area is the Peloponnese and these are our highlights – a mix of impressive UNESCO sites and historic beach towns:
Mycenae
Just an hour from Athens, this UNESCO World Heritage site dates back to the second millennium BC. Mycenae was a centre of civilisation and an impressive military strong hold. It’s an imposing fortified citadel with impressive views and a fascinating circular tomb complex. Don’t miss the nearby Treasury of Atreus also know as Agamemnon’s tomb just down the road.
Our tip: if you want to stopover, book La Petite Planete. A local gem of a place with exceptionally helpful staff and outstanding home grown food – the breakfast is endless, seasonal and delicious.
Mystras
Ninety minutes away and a few kilometres from the underwhelming, but more famous, Sparta lies Mystras. Another magical UNESCO World Heritage site. Spread over the slopes of the Targetos Mountains is a an abandoned Byzantine city complex packed with churches, palaces and convents. The icons in the churches and convents (some of which are still active) are sublime and the atmosphere and location is magical.
Our tip: stay at the nearby uber stylish Mazaraki Guesthouse. Set in floral gardens, it has a small pool, retro rooms and a great pizza service at the bar with views to die for.
Areopoli
An hour south of Mystras you enter the Mani. One of the best hubs in the area, packed with distinctive stone architecture and charm, is the capital town of Areopoli . The centre is laced with cobbled streets and Maniot stone towers. Don’t miss: the double Church of Panagia and Agios Charalambous with its beautiful byzantine frescoes; the 18th century Taxiarches Cathedral or a sunset drink or meal at one of the town’s rooftop restaurants overlooking the bay.
Limeni
Areopoli’s small port, a mile away, is Limeni. This instagram perfect strip of historic buildings features exceptionally clear sea, resident turtles (keep your distance) and a clutch of designer hotels and bars. Limeni isn’t cheap, but don’t let this deter you from swimming for free from the dock. The sea is stunning.
Kardamyli
An hour north up the coast is the historic seaside village of Kardamyli oozing charm and culture. The fishing port is fringed by pebble beaches, but there’s ample swimming from the the port and the local slipways. The sea is clear and emerald green.
Most visitors, however, come for the culture – the town is home to various festivals including the annual Kardamyli Literary Festival. There’s an impressive choice of cafes and restaurants, and we’ve never had a bad meal here. Don’t miss: the nearby The Leigh Fermor House part of the Benaki Museum and previous home of the author; walking 10 minutes up hill to the defensive complex of Old Kardamyli; and grabbing some ice cream at Lola’s.
Our tip: stay at Hotel Liakoto with sublime views, direct sea access and exceptional staff and service.
Messene
An hour and a half north of Kardamyli lies the vast ancient site of Messene. Founded in 369 BC, it’s one of the most impressive and least visited archaeological sites in Greece. The fact that it’s under the radar makes it even more delightful to visit. It’s quite possible to have sections of the ancient city state to yourself. The highlights include: the theatre, the odeon, the agora, the perfectly preserved stadium, the Asclepieion complex, the mausoleum, the baths and astonishing private tombs.
Wear good shoes and make sure to follow the map. The site is so large, so it’s easy to miss significant areas.
Our tip: don’t miss the city wall and explore the circular Arcadian Gate (with a dramatic fallen lintel) outside the complex. You need to approach from the west, not the modern town.