Most people who visit Peru will visit Cusco. It’s the gateway to Machu Picchu. It’s beautiful and fascinating and easily worth 2 or 3 days. The city’s downside is most people will experience altitude sickness to some degree, because Cusco’s altitude of a whopping 3399 metres requires respect and acclimatisation.
If you plan ahead, you will have an amazing time. If not, you may spend your time in this historical gem breathless, exhausted, dizzy or requiring medical help.
Dealing with altitude
Our advice on arrival is to immediately leave Cusco and descend into the nearby Sacred Valley for at least 3 nights and then return to enjoy Cusco when you’ve acclimatised.
We suggest Ollantaytambo as a base. It’s spectacular in itself and you can do many of the traditional “Cusco day trips” (to Chinchero, Moray, Maras, Pisac and Machu Picchu) from the lower altitude of 2792 metres.
Our other alititude sickness tips are taking it slow, listening to your body and having two cups of coca tea per day.
What to see in Cusco
In essence, Cusco is an Inca city built over by the colonising Spanish. This impressive combination means the city is jammed with an intoxicating mix of Inca and Colonial architecture. Everywhere in the historic centre you will see intricate slabs of Inca brickwork supporting elaborate Spanish, balconied terraces.
The old centre is very walkable don’t miss the following:
The Plaza de Armas is the centre point of the city, and was the navel of the Inca Empire. It’s a large open space surrounded by picture perfect colonnades. It’s home to frequent local events and fiestas and the massive complex of the Cathedral Basilica of the Virgin of the Assumption. The cathedral is a must see, incorporating the adjacent Iglesia del Triunfo, it’s packed with art, shrines and Inca references. Across the square is the Church of the Society of Jesus. There’s a small entrance fee, but it’s worth it for the beautiful baroque altar. The adjacent square, the Plaza Regocijo, continues the colonial colonnades and balconies. Both of these plazas are home to more expensive cafes and shops than other parts of Cusco, but they are beautiful places to linger.
If you want bargains and an authentic Peruvian shopping experience, walk on a few streets to the Mercado de San Pedro. It’s a atmospheric, buzzing market with street food stalls, local produce – check out the number of potato varieties – and handicrafts. On sale everything from local textiles, to flowers, the local delicacy of roast guinea pigs and religious items to offer to the gods. Tip – items just outside the market are often slightly cheaper.
One of the most impressive sights in Cusco is Qoricancha, the ancient Inca Temple of the Sun now built over by a Spanish colonial church. It’s a remarkable complex containing original Inca walls, an Inca temple, colonial courtyards and a church.
Our favourite area of Cusco is San Blas a hilltop, artisan area to the east of Plaza de Armas. Until you’re acclimatised, the walk up the steep narrow lanes can be exhausting, but it’s worth it. San Blas is laid back, home to great views, a cool selection of cafes and bars plus the exquisite San Blas Church. For food, try Chakruna Native Burgers – delicious burgers with veggie options; or splash out at Green Point for sublime vegan food in a garden courtyard.
Local Inca Sites
Within a 15 – 20 minute drive north of Cusco are 4 Inca ruins – the most impressive of which (Sacsayhuaman) is within waking distance from San Blas. They are all included in the Boleto Turistico which is definitely worth buying if you are visiting any ruins in the Sacred Valley.
You can reach them by colectivo or a taxi. Start at the furthest Tambomachay, a small site featuring a series of aqueducts and fountains. It’s peaceful and surrounded by fields. Next is Puka Pukara – the red fortress. The terraced stronghold was possibly an Inca fortress. If you’re short on time, this is the one to miss. Next Q’uenqo a holy sacrificial site, it’s small but the carved altar inside the cave is worth seeing. Finally, the mighty Sacsayhuaman.
The importance and impressiveness of Sacsayhuaman is often overlooked due to its more famous neighbours in the Sacred Valley. Spend at least an hour there, preferably more. It’s a huge site consisting of a giant plaza and impressive tiered zig zag walls. It’s also a lovely place to sit, take in the panorama of Cusco and wander.
From Sacsayhuaman, you can also climb up to the White Christ Statue – the protector of Cusco, it’s a popular spot for the sunset.