Bosnia is beautiful. Due to the relatively recent dark history, most tourism is of the day tripper variety. Trust us, if you don’t stay for longer you will miss out.
Admittedly, 48 hours isn’t much longer, but it makes a perfect combo with one of Bosnia’s more popular neighbours like Croatia.
Mostar
If you only visit one place in Bosnia, then make it Mostar. Once the day tripper crowds have been and gone, it’s spectacular and magical. Of course there’s breathtaking bridge, Stari Most. Tip – do make sure you appreciate it from all angles, our favourite was from underneath on the beach on the Neretva River where you can assess the true scale of its 24 metres.
The bridge is the main draw, but the old town of Mostar is a magnificent Ottoman gem. In the early morning and evening, it more than deserves the hype. On the west bank, get off the main tourist road and wander through the deserted squares and alleyways on both sides. Don’t miss the several pretty paths which criss cross down along the gushing Radobolja stream. Make sure you cross the Crooked Bridge, which was originally built in 1558, the cobbled streets are lined with a string of cafes in converted mill houses. In terms of views, you are spoilt for choice.
On the east bank of the Neretva lies the 16th century bazaar on Kujundžiluk and a string of cafes over looking the Stari Most. Another brilliant view can be had from Koski Mehmed Paša Mosque – there’s a steep charge to climb the minaret, but the view from the gardens is also perfectly perpendicular to the infinitely photgraphable bridge. Also worth seeing are Cejvan Cehaj Mosque, the Museum of Herzegovina and the Museum of War and Genocide Victims.
Blajaj
The enchanting settlement of Blajaj is 12 km east of Mostar – easily accessible by bus. The village is set along a clear, fast running river lined with ancient irrigation systems. It’s fame derives from the Dervish Monastery of Tekija located at the foot of a towering cliff face. The Ottoman building is simple and peaceful. After visiting, cross the river by one of the makeshift bridges and have a coffee and Turkish delight at one of the outdoor cafes. Blajaj is exceptionally relaxing.
Sarajevo
Given its lengthy and tumultuous history, there’s a lot to explore in Sarajevo. World War 2 was triggered here at the Latin Bridge when Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated by Gavrilo Princip – you can visit the key points along the fateful route by foot. More recently, Sarajevo underwent the longest siege of a capital in modern history – a total of 1,425 days during the Bosnian War. There’s a selection of museums covering the horrors of the war. If you only have time for one, we suggest the Tunnel of Hope. a metre wide tunnel between two houses which allowed food and humanitarian aid to enter the city when it was cut off.
The highlight of Sarajevo for us was the old town, specifically the 15th century Baščaršijaor or bazaar. Landmarks include the remarkable mosque of Gazi Husrev-beg built in 1530 and the nearby associated madrasa; the Morica Han with its exquisite courtyard built in 1551; and the well preserved 1555 Bezistan.
The most enticing aspect of the old bazaar though is the atmosphere. The cobbled streets, shops and cafes buzz with local life and it’s the best place to wander, eat, drink and people watch