Nicosia was the absolute highlight of our trip to Cyprus. It’s been a hotspot throughout history and remains one of the most intriguing cities we’ve visited.
Nicosia is ringed by spectacular, largely intact Venetian walls and also split in two by a more recent fortification, the “Green Line”. The Green Line is a demilitarised buffer zone patrolled by the UN between the Greek Cypriot side and the Turkish Cypriot side. You can easily walk across the border (passport needed) and both sides are must see.
The Greek side
Most hotels (and tourists) are on the Greek side, which is being rapidly gentrified with freshly restored mansions, boutique hotels and renovated alleyways.
Most tourists arrive here. We suggest starting with Eleftheria Square – conveniently located next to the bus station. Redesigned by Zaha Hadid, this spectacular public space not only showcases the Venetian history of the city, but the modern outlook in the undulating white structures zig zagging across this remarkable public area. Spend time exploring the base of the walls and people watching. Tip it’s even more spectacular floodlit at night.
The Greek side of Nicosia is incredibly cosmopolitan and home to traditional coffee shops, Middle Eastern sweet emporiums and outside cafes to relish. But our favourite food spot has to be Avo’s. This Armenian fast food joint has ridiculously good food at rock bottom prices. Sit outside on a plastic chair and devour one of their halloumi pies, or some lahmadjoun.
Next we suggest wandering amongst the Venetian, Byzantine and Ottoman side streets picking out treasures: like the 16th century Famagusta Gate or the 16th century Haman Omerye where you can still have a Turkish bath. You should also walk a section of the walls and pop into a church or two – we liked Panagia Faneromeni with its colonnades and square housing the mini masterpiece of a church the Cross of Missirikos. Tip always look up as you wander to appreciate the Ottoman balconies.
You should also walk a section of the walls and pop into a church or two – we liked Panagia Faneromeni with its colonnades and square housing the mini masterpiece of a church the Cross of Missirikos. Tip always look up as you wander to see the Ottoman balconies.
Finally don’t miss walking along some of the Green Line – take in the history and enjoy a drink in one of the iconic bars lining the demilitarised zone. Start at the Ledra Street Crossing and head west. The twisting walk is punctuated by dead ends leading to barrels, sandbags and peace murals; but you’re never far from a cool bar with outside tables and fairy lights. Our favourite is Haratsi a traditional coffee house founded in 1933.
The Turkish Side
We think the Turkish side of Nicosia is even more stunning.
The first section of Ledra Street is jammed with Turkish delight stalls, leather goods shops (despite the fact that you can’t take them back into Greek Cyprus) and cafes.
We suggest resisting the urge to grab a coffee and wait. Turn right off the main drag and enter the sublime Buyuk Han and get your caffeine fix with a view. The Buyuk Han dates back to 1572 and is one of the best examples of an Ottoman Caravanserai in the world.
After exploring, pop into the smaller nearby Kumarcilar Han built in the 17th century. Then wander. The Turkish side has an astonishing selection of mosques to explore and you will stumble on Ottoman fountains and tombs if you hit the side streets.
Leave the best mosque until last. The Selimiye Mosque. Built on the site of a Byzantine church, the former Christian Cathedral became a mosque during the Ottoman occupation in 1570. It’s a dramatic building. Our tip grab an outside table at Saraba Ev Yemekleri (a traditonal Cypriot restaurant frequented by locals) and take in the splendid view.